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Hat Guide

Cowboy Hat Shapes: Crown Creases & Brim Styles

A cowboy hat's shape comes from two things: the crease pressed into the crown and the curl set into the brim. Together they say a lot about where a hat comes from and how it's worn. Here are the shapes you'll see most often.

Crown creases

Cattleman

The most recognizable Western crease: a center dent running front to back with a dent on each side. It's tall, balanced and works on almost any face, which is why it's the default on so many felt hats.

Pinch Front

A teardrop or diamond-shaped crown pinched in at the front. It reads a little more modern and casual, and it's popular on straw hats and on riders who want an easy grip when taking the hat off.

Gus

A tall crown that slopes steeply from a high back to a lower front, with a pinch on each side. It has an old-time, trail-drive look that suits a wide brim.

Open Road

A low, oval crown with a single center crease and short side dents. Its dressier, understated profile makes it a common choice for wearing with a suit.

Telescope

A flat-topped crown with a circular dent pressed into the top. It's practical and low-profile, and it's a favorite among working ranch hands and in rodeo.

Brick (Gambler)

A squared-off crown with a flat top and sharp creases, like a cattleman with its corners pressed square. It looks clean and structured.

Brim styles

Cattleman curl

A moderate, even curl on both sides with a slight dip at the front and back. The classic pairing for a cattleman crown.

Pencil roll

Sides rolled up tight into a narrow curl, giving a sharp, sculpted outline.

Flat brim

Little to no curl, often seen on buckaroo and old-West styles and on wide-brimmed hats.

Taco

Sides curled up steeply so the brim folds like a taco shell, a look common on straw rodeo hats.

Keep the shape you chose

Creases and curls are set by steam and hand, and they can be lost the same way: heat, humidity, and pressure on the crown or brim. Read our guide on how to store a cowboy hat, or protect yours in the Mavericrest. Its crush-proof hard shell and adjustable internal bracket hold the crown in place so the brim never takes the weight. It fits crowns up to 5″ and brims up to 4.5″.

Shop the Mavericrest — $89